Miata racers, broken throttle shaft??    We've got the fix!
Our throttle bodies feature a race proven, robust shaft.  
Contact us, we can keep you on track and off the hauler.       

About Us
British Car Service in Tucson AZ (www.britishcarservice.com) has been servicing British cars for over 35 years and we now offer the same attention to detail for Miatas.  We have a complete machine shop on site which gives us the capability to produce these high quality throttle body upgrades.
For general questions regarding Miata or British car work we can be reached at 520-882-7026, M-F 8-5:30 MST or by email at rlsbcs@liveline.com.  For technical questions about our throttle body upgrades please email us.
To send us your throttle body for the upgrade our shipping address is 2854 N. Stone Ave., Tucson AZ 85705.
Below is a bit of Emilio Cervantes' blog describing his bouts with broken throttle shafts in his OGK (Orange Giant Killer) Miata.  You can see the complete blog at his site, 949racing.com under the blogspot heading.  Interesting stuff!

"Last installment was from Buttonwillow where we broke a throttle shaft. I fitted another but took the precaution of brazing the plate to the shaft. What I didn't do was braze both sides. That, as it turns out, was a mistake. So an few events later and I'm at Calif, excuse me, AAA Speedway in Fontucky, blazing down the front straight at about 120 when the throttle once again sticks open as I shift into 6th. Instantly shut it down and coast in. I already know what's wrong with it. Turns out you can still break the shaft even when it's brazed on one side. Upon tear down I realized that once again the screw had broken in half with head stuck to the brazing but the threaded portion sucked into the engine. Crossing my fingers I pulled the top of the BP4W manifold (two piece) and very gingerly dropped a magnet wand into each runner. #3 had a tiny little camper, the 2.5m shank of the throttle plate screw. My engine was safe, or so I thought.

So I get yet another TB but this time JB weld both sides in an attempt to keep any detritus from going astray. I install, fire it up and notice some wristpin noise. Lota wristpin noise. Dammit. Maybe running 7400 down the half mile front straight at AAA all day wasn't such a hot idea. So I went back to Buttonwillow a few weeks later to finish it off, which I did at the end of the last session of the day. Seized up tight just as I wound out 5th leaving the esses. :(

Ryal Greenwood at British Car Service in Tucson has made a custom TB for Miatas. He pulls the OEM 9mm shaft out, bores the TB and installs a very nicely machined 12.75mm shaft in there, mills one face so it has .5mm less cross section and voila! I'm testing it for him as I know now that shafts only last about two events in my motors. We're also investigating the feasibility of a single barrel type throttle body that will bolt to the stock manifold and the manifold we're working on.
"

So does any of this sound familiar to you??  If you have been down this road with your throttle shafts already then you know the frustration involved when your race day is cut short.  And if it hasn't happened to you yet, it's probably just a matter of time before it does!  Get one of our units and avoid aggravating and possibly expensive shaft breakage!


British Car service also race prepares Miatas for our customers who demand high performance both on the street and on track.  Below we have an article written by one of our customers for the local Miata club describing his Miata racing adventures and how we have contributed to his attaining his on-track goals.  By the way, the same car is also his daily driver!

From Bone Stock Street Car to E85 Track Machine - A Performance Driving Saga

Posted on 01. Jul, 2009 by jeffz in Features

Words by Carl M. Tootle
Photos by Dito Milian/gotbluemilk.com, Tom Sanders and Carl Tootle

Dennis and Peggy Hale made it clear you shouldn’t drive your convertible at the Thunderhill Miata event unless it had a roll bar. So in went the Boss Frog dual hoop. I hardly knew what that was. While the other guys were in auto shop in high school, I was practicing piano. Any teenager is interested in driving, but I was lucky to figure out which pedal made the car go and which stopped it.

Then, thirty-plus years later, my lady Charlee, light of my life and one of the original founders of Tucson’s Old Pueblo Miata Club, suggested we attend Thunderhill with a bone stock 1990 Miata while visiting my family in Sacramento. On the first day I burned out the original clutch, which had lasted well over 140,000 miles. I found that one can overdo high revs while excessively and amateurishly feathering the clutch during autocross exercises!

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Dave DeNuzzo (the “Crazy Red Italian”) installed an upgraded clutch for the trip home. But by then I knew for sure I wanted to do more of this track stuff. I told my friend Robert M. Powers of Pro Per Racing about the Thunderhill adventure. He gave me a copy of the Mazda Miata Performance Handbook by Norman Garrett. Bob has a long history of racing, including setting Maxton, El Mirage and Bonneville land speed records in his class F gas-modified roadster. He asked a seemingly innocent but extremely devious question: “Would you like us to put in a turbo?” I replied, “Well, I guess so.”

He and Ryal Greenwood installed the Greddy kit, which produced about 6 pounds of boost. I was thrilled with the difference. A dyno run at Addictive Racing in Tucson showed that the 90+ factory wheel horsepower was now over 125, and I could see no reason why I shouldn’t add more and more and more and more!

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Powers and Greenwood then did me a favor for which I will be forever grateful: they told me that horsepower is lower down the list of important racing car attributes. The suspension, the wheels and tires, the brakes and the driver’s ability are all more important.

A balanced car with all systems brought to the same level is almost always faster. With great effort, I resisted the temptation to immediately add lots of power. I learned a little about unsprung weight and bought some Volk Racing wheels that weighed about 10 pounds each, with some Falken Azenis RT-615 tires. I still use them on both street and track. I replaced the factory shocks with Tein SS+ adjustable coilovers.

Powers recommended I read Paul Frere’s Sports Car and Competition Driving. I did, and I’m still trying to digest its finer points. Ditto for Bondurant on High Performance Driving, Carl Lopez’ Going Faster!, Ross Bentley’s Speed Secrets and George Anderson’s Winning. I joined the Old Pueblo Miata Club and started attending ProAutoSports events at Firebird International Raceway in Chandler, Arizona.

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In addition to OPMC members Richard Olsen and Geoff Pangrac, my mentors included Saguaro Miata Club members Lyle Schall and Rod DiMarco. We were part of the “Miata Contingent” for one event after another. My skill and understanding increased with instruction from Larry Pond, John Devine, Andrew Waltenburg and others. Eventually, I spent a day seeing just how late I could brake at the end of the mile straight on the Firebird Main Track.

Then I bought Brian Goodwin’s Miata Big Brake Kit. When he says you will never exceed its thermal capacity, he means it. No fade. Your braking point is later than almost everyone, and a later braking point is the equivalent of more horsepower.

By now, I was thoroughly obsessed with improving both the car and my driving, I signed up for a Speed Ventures event at Willow Springs. My instructor was none other than Emilio Cervantes of 949 Racing. I noticed that when he was driving my car, only a few higher powered cars with really experienced drivers were faster  but when I was driving, only a few lower powered cars with really new drivers were slower.

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I still remember trying to make a quick steering over-correction at high speed going from the 900-foot radius turn into the 450-foot radius turn which leads to the main straight. Emilio instantly preempted, saying, “No! If you do that, you’ll go off track. Drive like your hands are in syrup.” I had spinouts from time to time, as well as polite crashes into hay bales and tire barriers. Jim Holmes always kept a supply of Miata red in stock at his body shop so repairs could be completed before the next track event. He and Dennis also did a great fender flare job to make room for larger tires. Mike and Ann of Mike’s Miata Place, Ebay’s azmiata_man and Flyin’ Miata kept us supplied with used door, fender and other miscellaneous parts.

Over time my driving continued to improve, and so did the car with 949 Racing’s 6UL wheels and Nitto NT01’s or Hoosier R6’s. Then, for the second time in my life, I lost an engine. When the original 1.6 liter finally gave up, it had over 150,000 miles and many track days on it. You may never have heard of “Tootle, the Little Engine that Could”  but it’s been popular in my family for several generations. That little Mazda engine kept running in spite of repeated flogging on track at revs of 7,500 and more, and increases in turbo boost to eight or more pounds with dyno readings in the 160+ horsepower range.

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We put it out to pasture with a couple of lawnmower engines to chase. With help from friends Andy Aragon and Ray Niemi of Tucson’s Revolvstore, we found a used 1.8 in a salvage yard with only about 50k miles on it. Ryal and British Car Service of Tucson did the engine conversion using the Flyin’ Miata kit, which made it considerably simpler and easier, not to mention less expensive.

Ryal also championed the use of E85 ethanol. Not only is it friendly to the environment, but it also has a high octane equivalent and cool burn, allowing additional boost. Again British Car Service helped, with owner Bob Schlanger showing great patience with Ryal’s efforts to do a good job in somewhat uncharted territory.

Do we have an alcohol problem? Hell no. The fuel hoses were changed to flexfuel-compatible 5/16 Goodyear 300psi FI hose with the blue inner liner from Auto Zone. The engine requires approximately 1.62 times as much E85 as gasoline. Even 550cc injectors proved too small above eight pounds of boost, so we installed 1000cc RC injectors from Eric Woon at Apex Motorsports, along with a larger fuel pump.

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Currently, the engine’s idle is a bit fussy. The typical injector pulse is 1.1ms (1.0ms to open the injector and 0.1ms squirt). To go leaner the next step is 1.0ms (no fuel!) and to go richer the next step is 1.2ms (twice the fuel!). The best compromise was to adjust fuel pressure to give a slightly rich mix at idle with a 1.1ms pulse.

Ryal also installed a Garrett GT28R60 water cooled, ball bearing turbo with a custom, jet-hot coated manifold from Rusty’s Total Performance. In our experience, even E70 Ethanol (the winter blend) has a higher knock resistance than 100 octane or 108 octane unleaded racing fuel, allowing more aggressive spark timing under boost. The cooler burning ethanol blend allows high boost on a high compression engine and creates less heat to remove through the cooling system.

Our next step is to add 949 Racing’s M-Tuned Coolant Reroute to improve general engine cooling. That kit is on order right now. Completing the picture for now is a custom exhaust with Innovate LC-1 wide band O2 sensor (required for proper tuning) and a DIYautotune Megasquirt PNP engine management system, tunable via laptop computer for either ethanol or gasoline; 91 octane premium gasoline or 100 octane unleaded racing fuel.  We also have an Auto Meter Boost Gauge and AEM A/F Meter running off a second O2 sensor.

The Megasquirt’s ability to instantly change maps from ethanol to gasoline and back eases the problem of E85 stations being somewhat few and far between. Oh yeah, we also added the KnocksenseMS from Boris Mohar to keep better track of engine-crippling detonation. Perhaps there is more boost in my future. Or another blown engine.

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Ryal wondered if there was a better alternative than carting gallons of ethanol to every track event, so he called Don at Torco Fuels. They now supply us with ethanol at Firebird and we hope that others will consider the benefits of this fuel. If the demand is there, Torco may prepare and deliver E95 for an even cooler burn with even more power.

Meanwhile, my performance driving saga has continued with Hooked on Driving events, memberships in NASA and SCCA and the 20th Year Anniversary of the Miata at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca.

I still remember grumbling at Ryal last year when the $900 “junkyard” engine was first installed and he limited me to 4800 revs, but cooler minds prevail! Again, it’s not just about horsepower. Since then, we’ve replaced the drive shaft and rear end with later model, beefier parts including a Torsen Type II diff. Boost is up to 15 pounds, revs back to 6500 (with a hard limit of 6800) and wheel horsepower to about 300.

After the latest tuneup by Jerimiah Taylor of Jumbo Motorsports using the steady state dyno at IA Performance, we have about 200 pound-feet of torque at 3,000 RPM, rising to 235 pound-feet at 3,500, rising again to 241 at 4,500, and then slowly tapering back towards 200 at 6,000 RPM. In other words, 200 or more pound-feet over a 3,000 RPM range. Such a wide band is far more useful on track than a higher but narrower one that would produce “peaky” power.

We do have to replace brake pads and gear boxes regularly. I’m checking into the Quaiffe transmission, but Ryal’s words still ring in my ears: “A lot of performance mods are to correct problems with the car. When you start with a Miata, there are no problems with the car. The mods just make the good performance even better.”

Related websites:

www.torcoracefuel.net/news.html
www.miatasatmrls.com
www.949racing.com
www.flyinmiata.com
www.oldpueblomiataclub.com
www.good-win-racing.com
www.mikes-place.biz


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